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16mm Puller for FLYWHEEL MAGNETO STATOR ROTOR YAMAHA YZF-R1 R1 98 99 00 01 02 03

€ 13.29

Availability: 67 in stock
  • Comparable Equivalent @ Yamaha: YM-01080-A
  • Removes Yamaha Rotor: 4XV-81450-00-00
  • Warranty: Unspecified Length
  • Manufacturer Part Number: 2842
  • Type: Flywheel Puller
  • Tool Size: 16mm
  • Brand: Unbranded/Generic
  • Tool Type: Flywheel Rotor Generator Puller
  • Equivalent to: 08-0027 080027
  • More: We have many more moto items listed
  • Condition: New
  • No we do NOT have a: Brick & Mortar Store you can come to.

    Description

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    READ ENTIRE PAGE FOR VALUABLE INFORMATION ABOUT THIS ITEM AND ABOUT OUR SALE AND SHIPPING POLICY.
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    PLEASE VISIT OUR EBAY & AMAZON STORE
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    FOR MANY MORE VERY COOL AND UNIQUE MOTORCYCLE TOOL PART ACCESSORY  REPAIR REBUILD FIX OVERHAUL RESTORE ITEMS
    ***NOTE TO BUYER: PLEASE measure the diameter of the threads in your flywheel where this tool needs to fit - prior to purchase. This is a 16mm tool. See photo for example.
    16mm Special Puller tool for Removing Your Flywheel Fly Wheel Stator Generator Alternator Dynamo Magneto Rotor Removal
    See photo for example of how this type of tool is used.  Make sure you follow your service manual (as well as online tips) when using this tool.
    PLEASE READ: Lubricate all threads of tool and flywheel before use. See tips below for puller use. Use of impact driver not always recommended. Some people do it all the time with no issue.  Others have problems doing it.  It just seems to vary from mechanic to mechanic, and bike to bike.  We recommend you thoroughly lubricate the tool as well as lube the end of the tool where it contacts the crank, Only use hand tools, a large mallot, leverage, breaker-bar, or you risk damaging the tool AND/OR the flywheel. See more tips below on flywheel removal.
    We understand that the early Yamaha R1 models seem to have Stator issues.  And we also see that many people have trouble removing the flywheel on the early R1 models. Please study online for the best methods to remove your flywheel.  There seem to be many helpful tips online for this model.
    It is not recommended to just keep turning and turning the puller to remove the flywheel (if nothing seems to be happening).  You will likely just strip the tool and or the flywheel itself. This is a part that is designed and installed from the factory TO STAY ON.  So it might not be simple to remove your magneto / rotor. See tips below for easier removal. (YMMV - Your Mileage May Vary!)
    International shipping available
    - overseas shipments take up to 6 weeks to arrive (except Express Mail.) There is no reliable live tracking of international shipments - just delivery confirmation. We have no control over the speed of shipments after we give the package to the postal service. Thanks for  your understanding.
    US Buyers:
    I do not recommend Economy shipping if you need an item within 9 days. Choose Expedited shipping instead for quicker domestic service. There is no live tracking of USPS shipments except Express Mail service. These shipments have delivery confirmation only.
    FITS MANY MOTORCYCLE DIRTBIKES DUAL SPORT MX BIKES BUGGIES SCOOTERS AND ATV QUAD AS SHOWN BELOW - Refer to your service manual or contact your OEM dealer if  you are unsure of fitment. See tips below.
    Puller Size:
    16mm
    16 - 1.5  16 x 1.5   Right hand male threads as pictured
    SUGGESTED FITMENT - Please measure the hole in your flywheel where this tool needs to fit. It needs to be around 16mm diameter.
    YAMAHA
    Removes Rotor Part Numbers:
    4XV-81450-00-00
    5PW-81450-00-00
    Comparable Equivalent for Yamaha Rotor Remover Tool:
    YM-01080-A
    YZF-R1   R1   1000cc   1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 98 99 00 01 02 03
    (Does NOT fit 2009 and newer model R1's. That is a different size tool that we also have listed.)
    FZ1  FZS1  FZS1000  Fazer 1000cc   2001 2002 2003 2004 2005
    Might (and probably does) fit many more models.  Check specs of tool and compare to your application.
    SEE OUR EBAY STORE FOR MANY MORE GREAT TOOLS SPECIALTY ITEMS AND MORE
    General Tips on removing a powersport vehicle flywheel:
    Flywheel Pullers are essential engine service tools and they are used in a lot of different jobs. We have a large selection of flywheel and rotor pullers for just about any motorcycle or ATV, and this tool is one of our most popular products. Most pullers are simple tools, usually consisting of an outer body that attaches to the flywheel and a lead screw to push on the crankshaft. Some pullers are just a hardened bolt that threads into the flywheel. Virtually every flywheel or rotor is attached to the crankshaft by a taper on the crank, which matches the flywheel. Torque from the fixing bolt holds the flywheel securely on the shaft.
    Pulling a flywheel or rotor looks easy enough. So what's the big deal? Well, sometimes it isn't such an easy job. Corrosion, heat cycling, or over-torquing the fixing bolt can make the flywheel difficult to remove. Many mechanics resort to using a large breaker bar or air impact tools when a flywheel won't come off easily. Try to avoid the temptation, because both of these techniques are sure ways to damage the flywheel, the puller, or even the crank, which is a very bad and expensive outcome.
    There are two simple tricks to employ when faced with a stubborn flywheel. When do you know you have a stuck flywheel? With your handy-dandy torque wrench, of course! The best way to remove a flywheel is to use a torque wrench set to 50 ft-lbs. Most flywheels will come off with less torque than this. If it does not come free at this level of torque, don't just go crazy and put more torque on it. You will likely strip the tool if you do this.
    If you have reached the 50 ft-lb limit, head back to your tool box and get a good sized flat face steel hammer, like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Many times a medium swing hammer blow to the flywheel puller will deliver enough shock to jar the flywheel loose. To do this, use the hammer to strike the end of the flywheel puller to shock it. Remember to wear safety glasses and make sure that you have something to catch the flywheel, as sometimes it can jump off the end of the crank when you deliver the hammer blow. The last thing you want to do is damage the flywheel if it falls on the floor.
    If the flywheel wont budge after striking it a few times with a hammer, it's time to break out the big guns-the propane torch. When all else fails, heating the flywheel can often do the trick. Applying heat to the flywheel itself will expand it, while the greater mass of the crank will stay cool and expand much more slowly. The differential in expansion rates will help to loosen the flywheel from the crank. But first, before you light the torch up, give the flywheel a good cleaning to get off any oil or other flammable compounds. Also make sure to get rid of any flammable liquids in the area, remove the gas tank and put it away in a safe place away from the work area, and make sure that the area you are working in is properly ventilated. The last thing you want to do is set your bike, yourself, or your garage on fire. Once the flywheel is clean and dry, and you have taken the proper precautions, put on your safety goggles and gloves and fire up the torch. Apply heat to the hub of the flywheel. One important point here: Only apply heat to the center of the flywheel. Focus the flame of the torch, and don't get it near the outer rim of the flywheel. Some flywheels use adhesive or other fixing compounds to locate the magnets in the rim that can be damaged by concentrated heat, and some magnets can be damaged by excessive heat as well. So concentrate the heat at the hub only. Once again, be prepared to catch the flywheel if it pops off, but make sure to wear gloves or other protection to avoid burning yourself on the hot flywheel.
    These two techniques are all you really need to remove a stuck flywheel with a minimum of effort. About the only situation that would resist these procedures would be the flywheel on that bike that you just pulled out of the lake, where it had been sunk for 6 months. In THAT situation, there is an old mechanic's joke, "R&R Motor."
    For Overseas / International Buyers:
    You are responsible for your country's import / duty taxes and any other required import fees (if any.)  US eBay Sellers have no way of knowing what these fees might be. None of this is in our control - nor is any delay in international shipping or Customs.
    ADDITIONAL SHIPPING & HANDLING NOTE
    - Orders placed after OUR business hours (7a-4p Eastern Time Mon-Fri) or on weekends or national holidays will be processed the following business day (Mon-Fri unless said holiday falls on a Mon-Fri, then shipment will go out the NEXT business day following said holiday.) If the post office is closed (or delayed) there is nothing we can do about it.  Do not rely on the shipping "estimates" this site shows you prior to purchase. That is only shown so that you can decide which shipping service MIGHT better suit your needs.  That info is not attached to the actual shipment (impossible because the item hasn't even been labeled or shipped yet.) But even after the shipment has left our door, do not place all faith in USPS' ability to scan packages and keep shipment info updated to the "T".  Their alleged "info" is sketchy, at BEST.  So, if you are really desperate for an item, you might want to contact us FIRST to see if your deadline is possibly doable. We strive to meet your expectations, but sometimes either due to holidays, after-hours purchases, USPS delays, or other strange circumstances, there is nothing we can do about any of that. U.S. Christmas Holiday multiplies delays x3.  Once the package has left our hands - it is all about USPS from there on.  We do not hand-deliver packages to customers.
    But we often get blamed - even if we did nothing wrong.